Become a dazzling mummy in the blink of an eye

These days a night out is such a rarity and if you’re anything like me you’ll be have forgotten what it means to do ‘going-out’ make-up!

Evening Eye

The wonderful make-up artist Kathy Walmsey, mum of lovely Saskia and baby on the way, has somehow found the time to divulge her secrets to creating the perfect night-time make-up. May the night out commence…

“My top tip would be to focus on two things; skin and eyes. If you can keep your complexion looking fresh by applying a flawless base, the rest of your makeup will look so much better.

Let’s assume you’ve cleansed, toned & moisturised. Next apply a Primer, this creates a lovely blank canvas for your makeup and gives it staying power.

A great primer that I really like is Laura Mercier oil-free. There are lots to choose from of various quality and price range, but this is an old favourite of mine. It smells nice, is kind and moisturising to skin and lasts a long time both on the face and the tube of product itself, as you need very little. A great runner up is the Nars Primer, and the Estee Lauder mattifying primer.

I then apply foundation with my fingers, rubbing it into the skin very lightly and then I blend it for a perfect, even look with my Real Techniques Buffing brush.

Foundations are so personal, it really depends on your skin but the one I keep hearing about is the Armani Luminous Silk. I have now swatched and trialled it and find it to be really good. The best description I have heard is from a beauty blogger who called it “skin in a bottle”. It goes on really well and you can’t see it on the skin at all, and you can build as much coverage with it as you need to as you apply.
The Chanel Perfection Lumiere is fantastic for combination skins that need mattifying and a medium coverage. It goes on really buttery and blends away with my fingers without ever being cakey.
Of course there are lots of options such as the new Revlon ‘Nearly Naked’ which is excellent and a far more budget friendly foundation.

For the under eye area I still maintain the Khiel’s Creamy Avocado Eye Treatment is second to none, I love it. I am currently trying Origins ‘Eye Dr’ which is very nice and £10 cheaper per pot so a good option there as a runner up for the eye area if like me you suffer with crepey skin or dark circles.
The next step is concealing the under eye area which is why it’s so important to have used the eye cream before you began. A hydrated skin will accept makeup far better, and you won’t see creases appearing under your eyes when you put on your concealer.
If like me you get dark cirlces you might find the Bobbi Brown colour correcter cream for the under eye a great place to start. You can apply it with a small brush then blend it with a good small blending brush.
Once that is in place you can then apply a nice layer of under eye concelear. The colour correcter will have masked the darkness, so the concealer can then do its job and create a fresh clean area of skin.
I am loving Origins under eye concelear ‘Plantscription’. It is really effective and not at all drying like so many out there. Nars creamy concealer is also a very popular choice, as is Stila illuminating concealer.

I like to finish the skin under the eye with my Laura Mercier very fine powder ‘Finishing Powder’ which keeps the skin makeup in place and brightens the skin under the eye even more. Just a light dusting under the eye does the trick.

Next is a good highlighter. I like the Mac creamy highlighter myself, you can just dab it along the cheekbone with your finger and blend in by hand, and it is subtle but effective.
You can also use it on your brow bone, jaw line and cupid’s bow.

make-up artist

Most of my clients ask me how to do a good smokey eye. I think I have done some version of one on almost every shoot or job I have ever had!

In my opinion most people can not carry off the black and dark grey tones seen on most models in magazines and that is where they go wrong. Smokey eye does not have to be black it can be done in any combination of colours and on someone with an olive complexion with a green or blue eye, for example, browns and golds are most effective, topped off with lashings of black mascara and a good liner in either black or brown.

You can opt to go for cream eyeshadows such as Bobbi Brown’s amazing long lasting eye creams. They go on well by finger or brush and stay in place… it just depends on the look you wish to achieve.

For a typical beginners pretty makeup based loosely on a smokey eye style, in natural tones here is what I do. For some I use an eyelid primer as it helps the eye shadow go on more evenly, and last longer. Most brands offer one, I like Laura Mercier for that kind of thing.

Once the area is prepped I do an all over dusting of a nice neutral goldy brown colour such as Bobbi Brown Champagne. I then use something like Mac Woodwinked in the socket and blend that down. You have then achieved a nice warm smokey on the upper lid. I like to take the darker colour under the lower lashes with a smaller eye shadow brush.
I then line the upper lash line with a brown or black eyeliner pencil, depending on the colouring of the person. I use my smudger to blend that into a soft subtle liner and then finish with mascara.

Once the eyes are done I do the cheeks. You already have your highlighter in place so no need for shimmer, just colour. A nice rosy or peachy shade will complement the gold and brown tones on the eye you have just done … Nars Orgasm is a golden pink tone and is really pretty. Alternatively you could go for a cream blush which gives a pretty dewy glow to the skin. My favourites for these is the Stila Convertible Colour. Apply creams with a brush or with your finger to the apple of the cheek, and blend away towards the cheek bones.
If a powder blush then a light dusting over the cheekbone out from the apple of the cheek.

For this look I like to keep lips looking soft and pretty. A Revlon Lip Butter such as ‘Berry Smoothie’ looks great against the makeup you’ve just done. Stick with pinks and peaches that are soft and hydrating on the lip not too glossy and it will complete your evening look very nicely.

Finish it all off with a dusting of loose powder to keep makeup in place, and prevent shine.
Alternatively a setting spray will do the same job. I recommend the Mac one but spray it on the brush and dab it on, don’t spray on the face directly.


Photo credits: FLEECIRCUS via photopin cc

pumpkincat210 via photopin cc

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